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Want to see a VIDEO on exactly how to dry brush? All the ins and outs, here > “ How To Dry Brush – Video“ Once it was dry, I came back and very lightly went over the whole top with my chip brush and white paint. (easy to wipe up if you make a mistake after) So I decided to apply one coat of poly first. I wanted it to have a bit of an aged appearance so I knew I was going to apply some white dry brushing like I did on the sample board I chose.īut…I didn’t want to ruin all this work if for some reason the paint when on too thick or something. Once it was dry, I applied my antique walnut stain. It’s pretty subtle but that’s because it takes a bit for the driftwood color to develop. (and lifted so as not to get stain on the cabinets and surrounding areas) Here is the wood with the driftwood stain applied.
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Yes! That kept the stain from grabbing too dark plus it changed the shade of the stain just a bit. So I grabbed one of those and rubbed my stain right over it. I had done a few samples with my favorite driftwood stain to see if I liked that look. I typically use Minwax Pre Stain Conditioner anytime I stain raw wood but I wasn’t liking how it was turning out. I have to say though, those 3 blocks sure match that floor well! ) I finally decided on a variation on that center block. You can read all about our awesome flooring, here. That flooring was the main attraction and everything just looked wrong next to it. I just could not decide what to do with this with our DIY wood countertop. This photo was taken after it was dry and the clamps were removed.īy the way, be careful when you glue that it doesn’t seep up into the top of the wood.Īny area that has glue will not accept the stain and you’ll be left with unfinished looking spots.įor the finish, I had created so many samples that my head was spinning. Sadly, I don’t have a photo of it clamped (with 4 – 3 ft clamps) here but this is where we clamped and glued it together. Next we brought it in and pieced it back together in place. If you like that look, then you can skip the “ripping down the wood” step. It wasn’t bad, it just wasn’t nice and smooth going across the top. I wish I had taken a photo of how they looked before we ripped them down on each side. He put these back together and then sanded them smooth….outside. I would have had more detailed photos of this whole process but we were on that crazy ORC schedule. He pulled it apart so I could take a photo. Next my husband cut slots with the biscuit joiner to join the boards together…. I’m always sharing in my stories as I’m doing projects, finding new furniture, fun finds….just all the day to day behind the scenes. Want to see some of these projects in “live” time? Hop on over and follow along with me on INSTAGRAM. Plus I wanted the boards to be all the same size. I wanted to have it pretty smooth going across the top. We could have left the sides as they were but they come a bit beveled and I didn’t want that look. That did 2 things, it created smooth sides to meet up and it made the counter top the right depth. We started out by ripping each side of the boards by 1/4 inch, which totaled 1/2 inch for each board. (Want to see even more of my favorite DIY supplies? Take a look in my very own curated shop, here!) biscuit joiner (we have a Ryobi brand but this one is similar).it is risky to allow others to insert USB stick (often infected with virus) into your system.
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Windows USB Blocker is the free tool to quickly Block or Unblock USB Storage Devices on any Windows system.
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